November 20, 2003

My introduction to Kuala Lumpur: There is a mandatory death sentence for anyone carrying drugs into Kuala Lumpur. KL welcomes everyone but drug traffickers. This was an announcement on the plane as it touched down into the KL International Airport. I also read in the passenger magazine that all drugs were treated the same- so someone carrying a bit of pot would get the same death penalty that a crack dealer would. Scary thought. Good thing I have nothing to worry about. It did, however, make me a bit nervous- maybe I should have checked my bags to make sure that no one slipped anything in!

We stayed at the Heritage Train Station Hotel, our second Heritage hotel of our journey. This one, however, was nowhere near as luxurious. Our dorm beds were in a windowless, poorly air conditioned room in what used to be a train station. The price, however, was unbeatable- 15 ringits (about 4 dollars) a night per bed. The building was certainly historic, built in a Moorish design with pointed arches and lots of latticework architecture. We were a short distance from Merdeka square, the hub of pretty old Islamic architecture and home to the National Mosque and the National Museum.

We happened to be there at the right time- near the end of Ramadan, when everyone is getting ready for the festivities that come along with the end of a month of fasting. There were bright lights and lanterns everywhere and walking down the streets you get a distinct sense of hope and anticipation, sort of like the week before Christmas. People on the whole were rather unsmiling and not too friendly, but then again, if I didnt eat all day I would be the same way. In contrast, the Thai people always smile, whether or not they have the best intentions.

Moms friend from Ohio University met up with us in the evening after she had cooked dinner for her four children and husband. She and her husband picked us up in their luxurious Mercedes and whisked us a way on a tour of the city. KL seemed infinitely prettier inside the air conditioned interior of a luxury vehicle, flying down the traffic-free well lit streets. She took us to an open air market where we ate all sorts of things for dinner including some mixed fried noodles, satay chicken and beef with peanut sauce, some tiny clams in a delicious sauce called lala, pig stomach broth (reminder- intestines are bitter tasting and rather unsavory if you ask me), some squid with hoong choi (a hollow stemmed spinach like vegetable) and hoisin sauce and peanuts, and some shaved ice with various toppings to finish it all off. There were dozens of stalls selling durian, easily the worlds stinkiest fruit. It is about the size of a small bowling ball, spiny, brown, and smells like a foot thats been in a sweaty athletic shoe for a few days. If you can get past that, the fruit itself is delicious, sweet, smooth, and creamy. I, unfortunately, am part of the majority that cant stand the smell. After dinner we drove to Chinatown, where there is a bustling night market selling higher quality goods than you can find in Hong Kong at better prices. I bought a pair of Addidas athletic shoes for 50 RM and they seem like a pretty good deal.

The night at the Heritage was mostly spent tossing and turning, but I cant say that it was terrible. The Heritage Restaurant right outside is fabulous with fresh fruit smoothies and delicious roti canai ( flaky crepes also known as paratha that are a cheap Indian breakfast specialty) with lentils for dipping. All four of us had an enormous breakfast for about 15 RM. Unbeatable.

Today we drove to the Cameron Highlands and chose yet another Heritage Hotel. Just so you know, Heritage is not a chain, we just happen to end up at them. I managed to feel pretty miserable all day- headache, slight fever, allover body aches in addition to being carsick, so the 3 hour drive wasnt exactly the first thing I had on my mind.